Saturday, January 16, 2010

Dijon Chicken Fricassee

OK, so I'll be honest: we don't really like chicken all that much. It's kind of bland, usually hard to make it taste like anything but cardboard, and the quality of the meat you find in the average supermarket is pretty low. That said, we're trying to get some different protein sources into our kids' diet besides the grass-fed beef that's been the staple for so long. So, we hunted out the best chicken we could find, and then hunted around for a somewhat different recipe that might be interesting enough. Fricassee is a classic way to prepare poultry, it's pretty fast, and the flavors are about as good as you're going to get. Here's what I tried:

1 cup chopped onion (half a large onion)
1/2 cup diced carrot (2 carrots)
1/2 cup diced celery (2 stalks)
4 bone in skin on thighs (would work just as well with two thighs and two legs)
1 quart water
3/4 cup white rice
2-3 tablespoons of Dijon mustard, to taste

Coat the chicken in paprika. Heat a 12" stainless skillet (you CANNOT use non-stick) to medium, and add regular olive oil to coat the bottom. Add the mirepoix plus a decent pinch of salt and sweat, about 5 minutes. Remove the vegetables, add a bit more oil if needed, let the pan heat back up, and add the chicken skin side down. Brown the skin (about 5 minutes), then flip and brown the other side for about 5 minutes. The pan needs to be rather hot - the chicken should be browned well but nowhere near done, with a decent amount of fond in the bottom. Leaving the chicken in, deglaze the pan with the water (you could use chicken or vegetable stock) and add the vegetables back in along with the Dijon mustard. The liquid should not quite cover the chicken pieces. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat, cover the pan, and simmer covered for about an hour, until the chicken crumbles with only a bit of pressure from a wooden spoon. Remove the chicken from the pan, remove the meat from the bones, then shred the meat a bit and return to the pan. Add the rice, cover, and cook until the rice is done. Serve hot - it's a whole meal in one pan.

Sunday, December 6, 2009

GFCF Crepes

We love making crepes for breakfast. Crepes have wheat and milk. The Kids(tm) can't have wheat or milk. So, I had to make tweaks to our crepe recipe, using a few other GFCF crepe recipes for inspiration. Here's what we made this morning:

Mix together:
1 cup of rice flour (half brown, half white, but the exact mix probably doesn't matter much)
1 tsp xanthan gum
1/2 tsp sugar
pinch of salt

Separately, mix together:
1 cup rice milk
2 beaten eggs
2 tbsp melted and somewhat cooled clarified butter

Add the wet to the dry, whisk together, and let the batter stand while the pan heats up. I do not use a crepe pan - all I have ever used is my Calphalon stainless steel 6" omelet pan that we picked up for a song in a store sample. Heat the pan to medium low and melt just a tad of clarified butter in it, then spread it around with a brush or paper towel and the crepes won't stick, plus you won't have to worry about killing birds with the fumes from the nonstick. I do keep a flexible spatula on hand just in case. The pan is the correct temperature if there's just a tad of sizzle when you pour and swirl the batter.

Kids loved this recipe and kept demanding more. The batter was somewhat thicker than I'm used to with regular crepes so I'll probably try a bit more rice milk next time.

Saturday, February 7, 2009

Braised Short Ribs with Mushroom Risotto

Heat a 5 quart cast iron rondeau over medium heat with a bit of olive oil. Coat four beef short rib squares with salt, pepper, thyme, and rosemary rubbed in with a bit of oil. Brown the ribs on all sides.

Add a sliced small onion, one carrot, and one stalk of celery to the pot around the ribs, then fill with about 2 cups of water and then red wine until the ribs are exposed only about a half inch above the liquid. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer and cook for 2 to 2 1/2 hours, until the ribs are falling apart. Then, turn the heat to very low, remove the lid, and start on the risotto.

For the risotto, heat a skillet to medium high, then add a few tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil. Add one minced shallot and cook for a couple of minutes or until the shallot is clear but not browning just yet. Add about 10 sliced mushrooms (baby portabella, crimini, porcini, all will work well, or you could use the dried assortment from Costco) and cook for another 3 minutes. Add a bit more oil if needed, then add 1 1/4 cups arborio rice and cook for a few minutes, or until the rice is translucent. Now, take a ladle and scoop one ladleful of the braising liquid, being careful not to get the aromatics or other debris into the ladle, and put the liquid into the skillet. Stir until the liquid is absorbed, then continue to ladle in more liquid until the rice is al dente, about 20 minutes total of cooking will be required. At the very end, add a bit more of the wine to the risotto.

Ladle a good scoop of the mushroom risotto onto the plate, then slice the meat from the ribs and arrange it on top of the risotto. Serve with the remaining wine.

This isn't exactly a high-brow dish, so it doesn't make sense to go overboard with the wine. We used our go-to Merlot (Bogle) and it worked just fantastic. If I wanted to go a notch higher, I might use a less-expensive Barolo.

Thursday, January 29, 2009

Chicken Noodle Soup

The stomach bug has hit the entire family now. Judging from my scientific sampling (Facebook), it's hit a lot of entire families this week. We were making a fresh fettuccine dish from Mario Batali's book and I had about a half pound of the fresh pasta left over, so I decided to make chicken noodle soup for when the wife and others are feeling good enough to eat. It takes a bit of time but not so much effort. If you don't happen to have some leftover pasta dough, you can easily make some:

Crack two eggs, beat, add to about 1 1/2 cups of flour piled up in a ring (kind of like a flour bowl, or volcano) and start stirring in flour from the edges till it comes together, then knead it all together for about 10 minutes and wrap in plastic for a half hour.

The broth:
Add 6 chicken drumsticks, a half yellow onion chopped coarsely, one carrot cut into 1 inch chunks, and 1 celery stalk to a stockpot. I also added some leftover mushroom stems. Add about a tablespoon of salt and a couple of bay leaves, then add about a gallon of water. Bring to a boil, then simmer for about 1 1/2 hours, skimming the foam if you wish.

When the broth is done, drain through a strainer. Remove the meat from the drumsticks and reserve for the soup. Roll the pasta, then cut to fettuccine, then chop into 2 inch long pieces. Add the noodles to the broth, then coarsely chop the meat and add to the broth. The broth is probably hot enough to cook the noodles in about 5 minutes, or you can return the soup to a simmer for about 2 minutes.

Sure, it takes a bit of work to put together, but it beats the snot out of anything you'll get out of a can.

Thursday, January 8, 2009

Deep Dish Pizza

OK, I am geeking out about deep dish pizza. Why? Because the secret to getting the pizza right is getting the crust right, which applies most of what I've been figuring out with bread baking for the last few months. Some review:

Yeast breads are either lean or enriched. Lean breads consist of just flour, water, salt, and yeast, and the protein structure comes from developing gluten in the dough; hence, hard bread flour and extensive kneading (and/or autolyse, but that's another show). Enriched breads add softeners such as sugar, butter, or egg yolk, and egg white for additional protein structure. What we want for our deep dish pizza crust is something in between, with some gluten but not too much so it keeps that flaky texture, and some enriching but not too much. We also don't want lots of extra protein because we're not baking a nice fluffy loaf, so the egg is out and we don't want to use bread flour - all-purpose will do perfectly. Here's my version:

The Crust:
8 oz warm water
1 tsp active dry yeast
13 oz all-purpose flour
1 1/2 tsp salt
2 tbsp good extra-virgin olive oil
1 tsp sugar

Dissolve the yeast in the water and let it sit till it starts to bubble a bit. Add the rest of the ingrediends and stir till the dough comes together, then knead with the bread hook on low-medium speed for only a couple of minutes. This is critical - we want a rather slack dough so it'll still be sticking to the bottom of the bowl a bit, and we don't want to fully develop all of the gluten so we're not going to knead the dough completely. When you pull the dough out of the bowl it'll be sticky and a bit stringy and lumpy looking - not like biscuit dough at all, but if you're used to baking bread, it'll be not nearly as smooth. Oil a bowl and place the dough in it, cover and let rise for a couple of hours. Then, divide the dough in half and use each half for one 8-9 inch pizza pan.

The Sauce:
3 shallots, diced (you could use sweet or red onion instead)
3-4 cloves garlic, diced
1 small to medium carrot, finely diced
3-4 tbsp olive oil
salt, pepper, thyme, basil, oregano as desired.
1 28-oz can of crushed tomatoes

Heat the olive oil, then saute the aromatics for 8-10 minutes until they're nice and soft and the shallots are just thinking about browning but not doing it yet. Pull the pan off of the heat and stir in the crushed tomatoes. That's right - the sauce isn't cooked, it is left raw.

The Assembly:
Heat the oven to 425. Press the dough into the bottom of the pan (dust first with cornmeal if you wish) and squeeze it about a half inch up the sides. It doesn't need to come all the way up the side as you'll see when it bakes. Add mozzarella to the bottom to coat the dough - you can shred it but I think it works better if you slice the cheese and lay it in the bottom, just don't leave any sizable gaps. Then, press hot and/or sweet italian sausage (raw) in a layer on top of the cheese so that it's about a quarter inch thick. That's probably 2-3 links of sausage, casings removed, per pizza. Now, toss in some mushrooms and ladle in the sauce until the 'shrooms are just covered. Bake for 35-40 minutes, until the edges of the crust are nice and brown and the sauce is just thinking about bubbling. Remove from the oven and add about a quarter cup of parmesan sprinkled on top, then let it rest for 5-10 minutes before cutting and eating.

New York Pizza

New York pizza isn't that tough. For the crust, I use an Italian bread recipe from this book, but I add half again as much salt to the final dough. I also make the dough a bit more slack so it stretches easier. A bit of extra flour and/or cornmeal helps keep the dough from sticking to the pizza peel (cornmeal doesn't soak up moisture the way flour does, so it makes a particularly effective sliding agent). I measure the dough into 8 oz balls and then spin them to about 12 inch rounds. A bit of sauce (not too much), cheese, and just a couple of toppings finish it out.

The key to baking the pizza is to use a stone and to get the oven rip-roaring hot. I used to try to bake the pizza at 400 or less, and you end up with burned cheese and raw dough. Now I run it all the way to 525 and bake the pizza right on the stone. When the cheese is bubbly and nice and browned, the crust is crispy, done, and perfect.

Try this for a sauce:
dice a couple of shallots, half a carrot, and a couple of cloves of garlic and saute in a few tablespoons of olive oil. Add a can of crushed tomatoes, some thyme and oregano, salt and pepper, and simmer for a half hour or so till it tastes like sauce.

Favorite toppings:
Sausage chunks (pre-cooked - the pizza isn't in the oven nearly long enough to cook raw meat toppings)
Fresh tomatoes and fresh basil chiffonade
Ham and pineapple (try it before you knock it)
Lots of cheese.

Wednesday, December 24, 2008

Fudging it

Yes, kids, it's that time of year. Time for me to try three batches of fudge before one of them comes out. But the one that came out so far was oh-so-fantastic.

I have engineered the formula for fudge by combining the old Hershey cocoa recipe (look it up) with Alton Brown's recipe (look it up) and adding some of my own magic. The formula is:

4 / 2 / 1 plus 3/4 (/drumroll)

That is: 4 parts sugar, 2 parts dairy (I like half and half), 1 part flavoring a la cocoa powder, all by volume. I put 2 cups of sugar, 1 cup of half and half, and a half cup of cocoa powder (a proprietary blend of brands) plus 1/8 teaspoon salt in a 4 quart pan and stir it all till it looks homogeneous. You can also use baking chocolate as long as it's 100% cocoa, which obviously won't look homogeneous until it melts. Put it on the stove on 5 and keep stirring until it just begins to boil. You have to stir to make sure that the temperature is even throughout the syrup - you don't want it burning on the bottom and cool on the top. Once it starts to boil, QUIT stirring and just watch. It'll hit softball stage in about 10 minutes or so (I'll try to post pictures of that later). When it gets to softball, CAREFULLY pull the pot off of the heat (not needed if you use gas, you lucky dog) and add a teaspoon of vanilla and 3 tablespoons of butter - that's the plus 3/4 from the formula. Cool to about 130F, then beat with a wooden spoon until it starts to get thick. I like to slowly stir and see how fast the fudge fills back where the spoon was. Once it starts to set (the beating of the spoon is what makes it set, believe it or not) you have to move fast to spread the fudge into a pan. If you want to add nuts (pecans, of course), you can add them in the middle of the beating process.

I have tried once replacing the 1 part of cocoa powder with white chocolate, alas with poor results. I'll try again and post if I can get that to work.